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Posts Tagged ‘paris runway’

Collette’s simple-yet-sexy line took  traditional/classic English looks (sort of) and revamped them, adding ruffles, lace, and sheerness to create a definitive feminine air without being overtly sexy. I was really glad to see that she didn’t just reach into the hat and grab a handful of 80’s trends that loads of other designers seem to have grabbed at; nary a huge/furry/pouffy sleeve or shoulder to be seen (ok, so there were a few – but much more subdued than most!), a singular one-shouldered dress stood out, sheerness and lace were used just right, and – although she did stick to a darker palette of colours – her hues hit just the right notes, when taken into context, to create a very un-Depression-y line. It’s definitely much more wearable than a good percentage of other deisgners’, and that’s key in  this economy (agh – how many times have I heard that??)

Anyway, enough talk – let’s move on to the clothes!

Collette Dinnigan Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Anna Iaryn. Mmmm, coat. It looks so warm and plushy.

Collette Dinnigan Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Simple and gloriously chic – understated, but a stand-out dress. Mmmmmmmmmmmm. See? The lace isn’t overused, but rather worked gently in with the rest of the dress – it’s not so much the focus as a part contributing to the whole effect. That‘s how I like it.

Collette Dinnigan Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Queeny van der Zande. Classic coat with a bit of a metallic sheen.

Collette Dinnigan Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Anna Iaryn. Simple black dress, complete with pockets and open neck.

Collette Dinnigan Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Emma Maclaren. Just the teensiest touch of 80’s here – barely noticable. I didn’t until just now.

Collette Dinnigan Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Shimmer, shimmer, shine little glow worm, glimmer, glimmer… (I think that’s how it goes._ Just a girly neckline, I always thought.

Collette Dinnigan Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

More lace used right! (OK, so there’s not really a definitive “right” way to use lace. I think, though, in this collection it really works well with the garments already; it doesn’t look forced at all.)

Collette Dinnigan Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Queeny. Ok, a bit more 80’s.

Collette Dinnigan Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Loads of lace! And… epaulettes? Shoulder pads? Hmm. I still like it, though.

Collette Dinnigan Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Long, black, and draped.

Collette Dinnigan Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Ah, timeless. The cascading jewels are nice.

Collette Dinnigan Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Collette Dinnigan Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Marlena Szoka. So… gorgeous… can’t… breathe… It’s a whole different level of gorgeousness than, say, Galliano. While his amazing Russian line was, well, amazing, it is utterly unwearable (for us normal folks, and even most at the top of the fashion pyramid). This, however, is wearable. Workable. Streetable. Whatever you call it. Tulle and a reptilian blazer and a belt… all pieces that could work apart or be thrown together for a night out (somewhere fantastic, I’m sure).

Look du jour:

Coco Rocha in her own “fireman’s hat” – read her blog for the story. C’est amuse.

~ r

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Can it be? Fashion Week is over? *heart-wrenching sob*
Actually I’m ok with that. But anyway: Hermes, Galliano, & Elie Saab.

HERMES featured an aviator theme, which was a refreshing breeze (ha ha, get it? Aviator? Breeze? ….. never mind.)

Hermès Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Raquel Zimmerman. I love the runway itself!

Hermès Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Yulia Kharlaponova.

Hermès Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Natasha Poly.

Hermès Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Hannelore Knuts.

Hermès Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Heidi Mount.

Hermès Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Tatjana Patitz.

So yeah. A bit of Eskimo-esque-ness at the end there. Now for the glorious Galliano!
Very Russian, very winter-wonderland-y. Very very very gorgeous, it seems to bare the essence of Fashion itself. The amazing clothes were accented by an almost fairytale setting and a dusting of snow, perfectly complementing each other. Dark, luxe colours and fabrics mixed with a few bright looks – a red minidress (complete with lampshade skirt) and a brightish blue coat and dress stood out amongst the throngs of gentle grey coats, white sheer loose leggings, and hugely accented corsets and skirts. The shoes – oh, the shoes! – pompom’ed, platformed, tall, and cool. Ridicuously ornate and embellished headdresses and necklaces and chains were flaunted throughout, echoing traditional Russian decoration.

John Galliano Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Maryna Linchuk.

John Galliano Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Vlada Roslyakova.

John Galliano Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Raquel Zimmerman.

John Galliano Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Irina Kulikova.

John Galliano Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Anja Rubik.

John Galliano Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Sigrid Agren.

John Galliano Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

John Galliano Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

John Galliano Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Toni Garrn.

John Galliano Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Anna Jagodzinska.

John Galliano Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Anabela Belikova.

John Galliano Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Lily Donaldson.

John Galliano Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Olga Sherer.

John Galliano Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Georgina Stojilkovic.

John Galliano Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Ksenia Kahnovich.

John Galliano Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Natasha Poly.

John Galliano Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Jessica Stam.

John Galliano Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Viviane Orth.

John Galliano Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Space pirate? John Galliano.

A truly gorgeous line – while it’s not really wearable per se, it really is… just…. wow-inspiring. The shoes are fun, too – perhaps one of the few really wearable pieces in the whole thing. That, and maybe… umm… the necklaces?
AHH who cares? It’s brilliant and gorgeous and we love it. So there.

Moving on to Elie Saab!

Following many of the trends, the line encompassed neutrals and sheers, bold shoulders and one-shouldered straps. It gave off an air of “cool, calm, collected, and crisp”, due to the subdued hues (pale seafoam green gowns, light grey dresses, black coats, and a few light blue numbers – all interspersed between white, white, white) and the minimalist display.

Elie Saab Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Jessica Stam – the new Michael Jackson? (Look at the glove…)

Elie Saab Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Anna Selezneva. More furry arms? (see D&G’s pink gorilla arms)

Elie Saab Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Coco Rocha in a feathered (?) cape and under that stunning hair. Agh. I want to go redhead (but that would look ridiculous).

Elie Saab Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Simple & minimalist grey dress.

Elie Saab Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Yasminka Muratovich. Not quite so simple… very D&Gesque shoulders. I like it though; the lace is nice. It’d be better without the monster arms.

Elie Saab Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Constance Jablonski. Sky blue, not really a colour we’ve seen much on the runways recently… good! Sky blue: not just for spring anymore!

Elie Saab Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Georgina Stojilkovic (one of my new favourites!) in electric blue. Love this colour – the neckline & shoulders are good too. Who else had that kind… agh.

Elie Saab Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Michela Kocianova. The jacket on this looks almost like the top half of a kimono.

Elie Saab Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Beautiful on Belle, more electric blue!

Elie Saab Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Tatyana Usova. Aaggghhh this is such a gorgeous shade, especially on her skin! And wearable, too. Very Grecian Goddess-y.

Elie Saab Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Georgina again. Gorgeous crystall-y crisscross & sheer floaty gown.

Elie Saab Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Vlada Roslyakova. Striking silhouette… and I should figure out how to get my hair to do that…

Nothing too wild, but still simply (literally) gorgeous.

Look(s) du jour:

Kenzo Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Irina Kulikova. Duuuude, that’s sweet. More!

Kenzo Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Jourdan Dunn.

Kenzo Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Inna Pilipenko. Hehe, furry shoes!

With more homage to Mother Russia, Kenzo // Fall 2009.

~ r

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Random stuff I’ve found over the day:

Arlo Weiner, son of Matt Weiner (creator of Mad Men), is thought to be something of a boy genius. This boy has mastered dressing and found a personal style for himself at the ripe old age of… 8.

His Valentine’s day outfit

Frank Sinatra-inspired

He’s worn this to school… over a dozen times.

More Sinatra style

Sheesh.

Alexander McQueen preview (b/c I’m too tired to do a full post): crazy hats and relatively tame outfits. Big lips = a must.

McQueen_DV_20090310191820.jpg

Hello houndsooth! And is that a plastic shopping bag on her head?

Lastly, a few looks from Jean-Charles de Castelbajah and his 80’s-kooky theme… Seasame Street!(?!?!?!)

“To be or not to be” – Kermit on the tee

This looks sort of like a sequined rooster.

…Clint Eastwood?

Hehe, je l’aime! Je l’ai besoin de!

Ah, so appropriate.

Red leather band jacket dress

Hat! Giraffe sweater! Je l’aime aussi!

For those who would critise: fashion does not necessarily have to mean uptight suits, silken trousers and precariously high-heeled crazy stilettos. While that’s amazing, sometimes you need to have fun with fashion… and that’s what Castelbajah does.  🙂

Look du jour:

Angular jacket and thigh-highs at Guy Laroche // Fall 2009.

~ r

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!!! EEEP!

Totally classic Chanel. Lagerfeld has done it again. Black and white tweed suits seamed to perfection, to-die-for bags, and… well, Chanel dresses. Here. (I will resist from putting every single look up here… I’ll limit myself to… 10. 15. 25….)

…although I will say I’m not a fan of the eye makeup at all.

All these ruffles, so Elizabethean. Shakespearean. That time.

Green pants! (Just in time for St Patty’s day!)

Agh. So unfairly gorgeously amazingly pretty.

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I LOVE CHANEL

Now pink & Easter-y.

Hehe, I am going to end up putting practically the whole collection on here… (sorry for lack of models’ names, Style.com doesn’t have Chanel on there yet. Grr….)

Gasp! A Chanel look I don’t like! (Well, I like the capelet… the rest, though…)

Holy Print, Batman!

More fuzzy pinkness. Hmm. (OK, it’s the legwarmers that’re throwing this off)

Swishy & dramatic!

OK, I need one of these hats.

All images from WWD.com

Why look, it’s Queen Elizabeth herself! (Not quite…)

Mmmmmmmmmmmm. Chanel-inspired bliss.

~ r

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Sorry, this is going to be a quickie – I’ve got school, the first day of track (nooooo!), and a bio test tomorrow. Blech.

ANN D.

Black and white, loose trousers, and some Edwardian silhouettes.

Ann Demeulemeester Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Ann Demeulemeester Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Ann Demeulemeester Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Ann Demeulemeester Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Ann Demeulemeester Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER

Jean Paul Gaultier Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Anja Rubik in an appropriate dollar-printed sheer dress.

Jean Paul Gaultier Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Iris Strubegger in one of the “his” of the “his-and-hers” outfits of the show.

Jean Paul Gaultier Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Natasha Poly.

Jean Paul Gaultier Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Karlie Kloss.

Jean Paul Gaultier Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Yulia Kharlaponova.

Jean Paul Gaultier Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Catherine McNeil.

Jean Paul Gaultier Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Jean Paul Gaultier Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Jean Paul Gaultier Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Jean Paul Gaultier Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Jourdan Dunn.

Jean Paul Gaultier Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Viktoria Sekrier.

Jean Paul Gaultier Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Lara Stone.

COMME DES GARCONS

It always annoys me when there aren’t the correct accents on words in other languages… sorry.

Comme des Garçons Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Comme des Garçons Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Comme des Garçons Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Comme des Garçons Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Comme des Garçons Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Yawn. I finish this just as the clock turns to 10:00 and as the final strains of Mozart Serenade #13 in G fade away… a seemingly perfectly coordinated end.

Look du jour:

Isabel Marant Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Natasha Poly

Isabel Marant Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Enriko Mihalik. Both, Isabel Marant Fall 2009.

~ r

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CHRISTIAN DIOR

Taking keys from Poiret (a WWI-era French designer), Dior’s collection had an Eastern theme: brocaded everything, harem pants, ikat patterns, and Eastern looks in general. Blip form Style.com:

“Happily, there was no sense of straining for a recession solution about it. After treating Dior’s standard suitings to a light, shortened adaptation of Poiret’s hobble skirt, Galliano moved on to paisley-print day dresses and thence to the drapey harems (best in cream satin with a pale beige astrakhan gilet). That opened a neat portal through which Galliano’s romantic, silver filigree Indian-embroidered chiffon cocktail and evening dresses could pass, looking effortlessly pretty. The result: grown-up fare for regular women, editorial-grade styling to appeal to the fashion press, and, in total, a clever feat of simultaneous translation from a well-traveled designer who knows how to reach his global markets.”

Christian Dior Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Turban and mini hobble skirt.

Christian Dior Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Very Poiret looking.

Christian Dior Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Yulia Kharlaponova. Very Asian-looking.

Christian Dior Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Anja Rubik. The top has traces of Asian influence in it with that side seam.

Christian Dior Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Tallulah Morton. Those headpieces are very Poiret-inspired. (I’ll put some pictures up after the collection)

Christian Dior Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Emma Maclaren.

Christian Dior Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Serafima Vakulenko.

Christian Dior Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Siri Tollerad.

Christian Dior Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Jessica Stam. Look at those pants!

Christian Dior Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Viviane Orth.

Christian Dior Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Lily Donaldson.

Christian Dior Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

And just because, John Galliano.

And so you can see Poiret’s influence on Galliano without lots of Googling, here:

SorbetSilk damask and chiffron dressesTheatre des Champs Elysees evening dress

SorbetOpera coats"Fils du Ciel, Paisley Jacquard Jacket and Feuille d'Automne"

All images from here. Good read if you want to know more about Poiret.

https://i0.wp.com/www.newyorker.com/images/2007/05/21/p233/070521_r16237_p233.jpghttp://ivivarda.files.wordpress.com/2007/06/poiret1912.jpg

A few sketches.

OK, moving on to LANVIN. (Yay!)
Lanvin’s show – staged on a water-covered concrete runway (to look like an average street) – combined Parisian chic with reality, basically; Albert Elbaz (the genius behind Lanvin) said he “thought with his heart of what women needed from fashion- dresses, suits, blouses coats. Life isn’t just parties and lunches” and gave it to them in the form of knotted dresses, drapes, bias-cut dresses, and simple shapes. The overall tone was ever-so-slightly 1940’s, but only just traces.

Lanvin Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Lanvin Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Vlada Roslyakova.

Lanvin Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Siri Tollerad.

Lanvin Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Lanvin Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Lanvin Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Ali Stephens.

Lanvin Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Kim Noorda. Slightly goth, this one.

Lanvin Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Lanvin Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Anna Jagodzinska.

Lanvin, as always, came through.

MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA

Mmm.

Maison Martin Margiela Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Maja Perovic.

Maison Martin Margiela Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Daul Kim.

Maison Martin Margiela Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Belle.

Maison Martin Margiela Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Ines.

Maison Martin Margiela Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Maison Martin Margiela Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Maison Martin Margiela Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Maison Martin Margiela Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Emma Xie.

Maison Martin Margiela Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Ludmilla Dom Perignon.

Maison Martin Margiela Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Tara Gill.

Maison Martin Margiela Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Elcee Sharypkina.

Maison Martin Margiela Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Maison Martin Margiela Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

This is too cool.

Maison Martin Margiela Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Those are so sweet…. and relatively easy to duplicate, it looks like… hmm…

Look du jour (more 30’s themes!):

Azzaro Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Azzaro // Fall 2009.

From The Sartorialist. [Milan].

Models backstage at the Christian Dior show at Paris Fashion Week

Backstage at Dior. (The Moment blog)

Ciao,

~ r

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Ah, Paris. le ville d’amour et lume vrai. Et la temp meillure etre dans Paris est… le semain de mode!!!

Ah, Paris, the city of love and lights… and the best time to be in Paris is… fashion week!

We’ll start with Balenciaga

Drapes, sparkles, silk, all very Parisian; the line screamed sophistication and femininity rather than sci-fi-futuristic.

Balenciaga Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Draped silk skirt with a sparkly top.

Balenciaga Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Balenciaga Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Balenciaga Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Iris Strubegger.

Balenciaga Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Katy Fogarty. Sheer, sparkly, and shouldered.

Balenciaga Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Ali Stephens.

Ah, tres classique et chic. Ha ha, je ne sais pas pourquoi j’utilise beaucoup de francais aujourd’hui… c’est amuse. Aussi, j’apologise pour les errores grammatiques (?), parce que je ne sais pas tout les regles du grammarie.

Anyway.

BALMAIN
Short, tight bandage dresses; sparkles all about; a definite air of rock chic.

Balmain Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Anja Rubik.

Balmain Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Erin Wasson. (!)

Balmain Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Natasha Poly.

Balmain Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Anja Rubik.

Think I’ve gone over that already… do watch the video, though, c’est fantastique!

NINA RICCI
Again, another write-up from Style.com that I feel really does the collection justice:

“The show might have been his swan song at Nina Ricci, but Olivier Theyskens saw it through with a fierce, surreal poetry no one who witnessed it will forget. Vastly tall, his strong-shouldered women were walking, trancelike, on what looked like an impossibility: a laced-up platform ankle boot with a sickle-shaped hole at the back. No heels at all. Their clothes—everything from strangely flowing pants to incredibly cut suits to probably the best black leather jacket in Paris and evening dresses with swooping, furling skirts—were a tour de force. Between the strange atmosphere, the supersharp, almost Mugler-esque jackets, and the sculpted forms, it rounded up everything fashion-watchers have known Theyskens is capable of, and went even further.

“I was thinking of a nocturnal mood,” he said backstage, trying to explain how he’d orchestrated it. “Not nightclubbing at all. Something moonlit—a bit magical.” Oddly enough, it wasn’t melancholy and never lapsed into the costumey gothic mindset Theyskens once inhabited. Instead, the collection was a proud—if not exactly defiant—series of reminders of the chic, precise way he used to cut a jacket when he was running his own line, a flashback to the corseted lingerie he perfected at Rochas, and an underscoring of the genius he has applied to making grand event dresses during his tenure at Ricci. Backstage, Theyskens was gracious and smiling as he received sincere congratulations for an outing that showcased all his talents, offered many things for many women to wear for many occasions, and was thereby the most mature and salable collection he’s designed to date. Quite why he saved his best till last is a mystery, but Ricci’s management may just be kicking itself for letting him go.”

Nina Ricci Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Nina Ricci Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Karmen Pedaru. Boots!

Nina Ricci Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Nina Ricci Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Kendra Spears. Look! Batman! (Or something…)

Nina Ricci Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Sigrid Agren.

Nina Ricci Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Nina Ricci Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Kelvin. (IMG)

RICK OWENS started off, as predicted, on a notably dark note… but as the show progressed, the looks morphed into something lighter – “swans”, Owens said.

Rick Owens Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Heidi Mount.

Rick Owens Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Sasha Pivrovarova

Rick Owens Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Rick Owens Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Here we see the swan.

Rick Owens Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Ali Stephens.

Rick Owens Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear

Kinga Rajzak.

Now…

Proenza Schouler Fall 2009 boots on the street! [JAK&JIL]

Also from JAK&JIL, Hanne Gaby Odiele sporting a Rick owens 2004 curly-hair-lined freebie, like several other models.

J’attende en anticipation pour le reste de la semain! A demain!

~ r

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