Taking keys from Poiret (a WWI-era French designer), Dior’s collection had an Eastern theme: brocaded everything, harem pants, ikat patterns, and Eastern looks in general. Blip form Style.com:
“Happily, there was no sense of straining for a recession solution about it. After treating Dior’s standard suitings to a light, shortened adaptation of Poiret’s hobble skirt, Galliano moved on to paisley-print day dresses and thence to the drapey harems (best in cream satin with a pale beige astrakhan gilet). That opened a neat portal through which Galliano’s romantic, silver filigree Indian-embroidered chiffon cocktail and evening dresses could pass, looking effortlessly pretty. The result: grown-up fare for regular women, editorial-grade styling to appeal to the fashion press, and, in total, a clever feat of simultaneous translation from a well-traveled designer who knows how to reach his global markets.”
Turban and mini hobble skirt.
Very Poiret looking.
Yulia Kharlaponova. Very Asian-looking.
Anja Rubik. The top has traces of Asian influence in it with that side seam.
Tallulah Morton. Those headpieces are very Poiret-inspired. (I’ll put some pictures up after the collection)
Jessica Stam. Look at those pants!
And just because, John Galliano.
And so you can see Poiret’s influence on Galliano without lots of Googling, here:
All images from here. Good read if you want to know more about Poiret.
A few sketches.
OK, moving on to LANVIN. (Yay!)
Lanvin’s show – staged on a water-covered concrete runway (to look like an average street) – combined Parisian chic with reality, basically; Albert Elbaz (the genius behind Lanvin) said he “thought with his heart of what women needed from fashion- dresses, suits, blouses coats. Life isn’t just parties and lunches” and gave it to them in the form of knotted dresses, drapes, bias-cut dresses, and simple shapes. The overall tone was ever-so-slightly 1940’s, but only just traces.
Kim Noorda. Slightly goth, this one.
Lanvin, as always, came through.
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA
Ludmilla Dom Perignon.
This is too cool.
Those are so sweet…. and relatively easy to duplicate, it looks like… hmm…
Look du jour (more 30’s themes!):
Azzaro // Fall 2009.
From The Sartorialist. [Milan].
Backstage at Dior. (The Moment blog)